Asian Food Stores Adding to Carp Problem?

  • An Illinois Natural History Survey intern shows off her catch (a bighead carp). Officials are concerned that human behavior may help the invasive fish get around the barrier on the Chicago River. (Photo by Mark Pegg, INHS)

Over time, invasive species have upset the natural balance of the Great Lakes. Now, officials are working frantically to stop a new threat, the Asian carp. The carp lives in tributaries connected to the Great Lakes. But there may be another route into the water system – through Asian food stores. As the Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Karen Kelly reports, live carp can be purchased in many cities throughout the region:

Transcript

Over time, invasive species have upset the natural balance of the Great Lakes. Now, officials are
working frantically to stop a new threat, the Asian carp. The carp lives in tributaries connected to
the Great Lakes. But there may be another route into the water system – through Asian food
stores. As the Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Karen Kelly reports, live carp can be purchased
in many cities throughout the region:


“This one in Chinese, layoo. This one in Chinese…”


York Alooah stands in front of a crowded fish tank at the 168 Market in Ottawa, Canada’s capital.
He points to the fat, foot and a half-long bighead carp swimming behind the glass.


The fish are brought to his store by truck from Toronto. They originate at farms in the southern
U.S.


Speaking through an interpreter, Alooah says it’s unlikely that a carp could escape during
delivery.


“They use a big truck and have the fish tank inside.”


Alooah says the fish can’t jump out because the tanks are covered. Still, the live sale of these fish
has many people worried. That’s why states like Indiana, Michigan, Minnesota and Ohio have
banned the possession of live Asian carp.


Several states are also asking the federal government to add these carp to a list of invasive species
considered harmful. That listing would make it illegal to possess them alive.


In Canada, there aren’t laws like that on the looks. But officials say they’re considering action.


Nick Mandrack is a research scientist with the Canadian Department of Fisheries and Oceans. He
says Canadian researchers are keeping an eye on an Asian carp population that’s moving north up
the Mississippi River. They worry that the fish will migrate through a manmade canal into the
Great Lakes.


“If they were to become established, either through dispersal up from the Mississippi or
unauthorized release as a result of the live food trade, they could have enormous impacts on the
Great Lakes ecosystem, which would likely result in a dramatic decline in the biomass of game
fishes.”


That’s because two species of Asian carp eat the same food as small forage fishes. And those
forage fishes are what the larger gamefish rely on. The Asian carp are too big for the gamefish to
eat.


Researchers are also worried about two other species. The black carp could wipe out endangered
mussels that live in the lakes. And the grass carp destroys aquatic plants where native fishes live.


Mandrack has seen both the bighead and the grass carp sold live in Asian food stores. He and
others say that poses one of the greatest threats to the Great Lakes fish population.


(sound of fish scaling)


Back at the 168 market in Ottawa, York Alooah uses a long knife to butcher and scale a fish he’s
pulled out of a tank. He laughs when an interpreter asks if people ever leave his store with live
carp.


“When people buy, it’s not alive. He clean and kill and clean everything.” Is it never alive?”
“Never.”


In fact, the city of Chicago is hoping to guarantee that doesn’t happen. Officials want stores that
sell live carp to operate under permits. And the fish would have to be killed before it left the
store.


But not all fish is bought for consumption. There’s also concern about a Buddhist practice in
which captive animals are released into the wild.


Tookdun Chudrin is a nun with the MidAmerica Buddhist Association. She says the carp sold in
food stores are not likely candidates for release.


“I think that people would not buy such a large fish for liberation because they tend to get very
small animals and very often will put them in a pond at a temple.


And Chudrin says, Buddhists would want to know if the religious practice was harming other
animals.


“I think definitely if there were a sign saying that said putting these fish in the lakes could be
detrimental to other species, I think people for sure would heed that if this was going to endanger
others and the people knew it, I don’t think they’d do that.”


So far, only two Asian carp have been found – in the Canadian waters of the Great Lakes.
Another was released in a fountain in Toronto, just a few blocks from Lake Ontario.


Whether from pranks, or acts of kindness, some fear it’s only a matter of time before more carp
get into the water. They say the Great Lakes could become a giant carp pond, and many of the
species we’ve come to know would disappear.


For the Great Lakes Radio Consortium, I’m Karen Kelly.

Ice Delays Opening of Seaway

Despite warmer weather, the St. Lawrence Seaway will open six days late because there’s too much ice on the St. Lawrence River. Icebreakers will begin work clearing a shipping channel this week. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s David Sommerstein reports:

Transcript

Despite warmer weather, the St. Lawrence Seaway will open 6 days late because there’s too much
ice on the St. Lawrence River. Icebreakers will begin work clearing a shipping channel this week.
The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s David Sommerstein reports:


Ice fishermen on the St. Lawrence are drilling through more than three feet of ice in some places.


[drilling sound]


It’s the thickest ice buildup they’ve seen in decades. It’s causing the St. Lawrence Seaway to
postpone its opening from March 25th to March 31st this year. It’s the first time that’s happened in
the waterway’s 44 year history.


Seaway Administrator Albert Jacquez says the decision was made after consulting weather experts
and officials in Canada.


“If we can’t ensure to the best of our ability that a ship can get through without damage to either
our facilities or the ship itself and ultimately to the environment around us, we shouldn’t be
opening and so that’s what is the determination.”


When there’s too much ice on the river, a freighter’s wake can damage
vegetation, cause shoreline erosion, and disturb fisheries. Shippers say an
idle freighter can cost them 100,000 dollars a day.


For the Great Lakes Radio Consortium, I’m David Sommerstein.

U.S. Army Corps Seeks Neighbor’s Support

  • A freighter navigates the American Narrows in the St. Lawrence River. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers wants to embark on a $20 million study to look at expanding the St. Lawrence Seaway's locks and channels, but they first need Canada's support. Photo by David Sommerstein.

The St. Lawrence Seaway is a major economic engine for the communities of the Great Lakes. Shippers and ports say a deeper channel for bigger freighters will add billions of dollars in trade and create new jobs. Environmentalists say replumbing the Seaway would devastate the region’s ecology. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers wants to move ahead on a 20 million dollar study of Seaway expansion. But it’s waiting for support and money from Canada. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s David Sommerstein reports:

Transcript

The St. Lawrence Seaway is a major economic engine for the communities of the Great Lakes.
Shippers and ports say a deeper channel for bigger freighters will add billions of dollars in trade and
create new jobs. Environmentalists say replumbing the Seaway would devastate the region’s
ecology. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers wants to move ahead on a 20 million dollar study of
Seaway expansion. But it’s waiting for support and money from Canada. The Great Lakes Radio
Consortium’s David Sommerstein reports:


The Army Corps of Engineers’ study will set the Seaway’s agenda for years to come. That’s why
ports on both sides of the border say it’s important to update a system that’s almost fifty years old.
Keith Robson is president and CEO of the port of Hamilton, Ontario.


“You know, when it was first built, it was probably the right size and now the world has moved
on, so we need to take a look at what we need to do for the future.”


The world of shipping has moved on to so-called “Panamax” size. That’s the term used for huge
freighters that carry cargo containers to coastal ports and through the Panama Canal. A preliminary
study says if those Panamax ships could squeeze into the Seaway, a billion and a half dollars more a
year could float into ports such as Hamilton, Duluth, Toledo, Chicago, and Detroit.


But while bigger may be better in the Corps’ projections, shippers first want to make sure the old
locks keep working as is. Reg Lanteigne of the Canadian Shipowners Association says Canadian
shippers rely on the Seaway to handle 70 million tons of cargo a year.


“None of our economy could sustain a catastrophic failure of that waterway. The only issue here
is not how deep, how wide, how long the ditch should be, but the most important issue is how
long the current ditch can last.”


For the 20 million dollar study to proceed at all, Canada must fund half of it. Canada owns 13 of
the Seaway’s 15 locks. And the shipping channel is partially in Canadian waters. But even though
a decision was expected months ago, Canada has yet to sign on. Critics believe that’s because
Canada sees problems in the Corps’ approach.


Dozens of environmental groups across the Great Lakes have slammed the study. They say it’s
cooked in the shipping industry’s favor. They say it’s predestined to support expansion with dire
environmental consequences.


Expansion foes gathered recently at a meeting organized by the New York-based group ‘Save The
River.’ Their ears perked up when Mary Muter took the floor. She’s vice-president of the
Georgian Bay Association, an Ontario-based environmental group. She says Canada is wary of
expansion. The first time the Seaway was dug, water levels dropped more than a foot. With even
lower levels today, Muter says places like Lake Huron’s Georgian Bay can’t afford to lose more
water.


“Wetlands have literally dried up, converted into grass meadows in some locations. Another
concern is access for shoreline property owners to get to their cottages that are on islands.”


There are also concerns of invasive species depleting fisheries and channel dredging stirring up toxic
sediment.


But Muter says Canada is also wary of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which has developed a
reputation of skewing studies to justify more work. Muter says Canada’s Transport Minister has
assured her one thing. He’s not interested in an expansion study that leaves environmental issues as
an afterthought.


“If the U.S. transport department wants to involve the Army Corps, that’s fine. But Canada is not
giving money directly to the U.S. Army Corps to replumb the Great Lakes.”


Both transportation departments have remained tight-lipped through months of negotiations, leaving
interest groups on both sides of the debate to speculate.


Stephanie Weiss directs Save The River. She says Canada’s delay may mean a chance to broaden
the scope of the study beyond shipping.


“Y’know, is this an opportunity to change the shape of the study into something that more interest
groups and more citizens around the Great Lakes can buy into?”


Reg Lanteigne of the Canadian Shipowners Association says the delay is just a bureaucratic one.


“The mandate has been agreed, the scope and governance has all been agreed. All we’re looking
for now is a suitable location and time and date to sign this off.”


On the U.S. side of the border, Congress has allocated 1.5 million dollars for the first year of the
study. That’s less than the Corps had asked for. And the legislation includes a special warning. It
directs the Corps to pay more attention to the environmental and recreational impacts of building a
bigger Seaway channel.


For the Great Lakes Radio Consortium, I’m David Sommerstein.

Brighter Future for Native Trout

Anglers in Lake Superior are looking forward to the return of the coaster brook trout. The native trout was fished nearly to extinction in the early 1900s. New efforts to help the remaining populations rebound are attracting the interest of fisheries managers around the Great Lakes. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Stephanie Hemphill has the story:

Transcript

Anglers in Lake Superior are looking forward to the return of the coaster brook trout. The native trout was fished nearly to extinction in the early 1900s. New efforts to help the remaining populations rebound are attracting the interest of fisheries managers around the Great Lakes. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Stephanie Hemphill reports:


The French River tumbles into Lake Superior about 15 miles from Duluth. It’s a popular fishing spot, and people are catching rainbow trout. Rainbows are not native to Lake Superior. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources stocks them from the fish hatchery across the road.


People used to catch coaster brook trout here, but
there aren’t many of the fish around anymore.


“I haven’t seen one of those in years.”


“There aren’t any coaster brook trout. You’re dreaming.”


“‘You very seldom get them, but when you do they’re nice.’ Hemphill: ‘Why are they nice?’  ‘They’re so nice and clean, the colors are so beautiful.’ Hemphill: ‘Are they good eating?’ ‘Oh-h-h, there isn’t any better.'”


For a freshwater fish, coasters are colorful. Their sides are sprinkled with bright red dots. Their fins are edged with a bright white line. When they spawn, their bellies turn iridescent orange.


They hatch in rivers, and then swim downstream to grow up in the lake. They return to the river to spawn.


There used to be lots of coasters around Lake Superior, and in northern Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. They were a popular sport fish. In the 1850s, people came from all over to catch them. By the early 1900s coasters had practically disappeared.


Don Schreiner is the Department of Natural Resources fisheries supervisor in this part of Minnesota. He says coasters are fairly easy to catch. And that’s why they almost disappeared.


“There were no roads up here, people came in by boat, they came in by train. There’s accounts of people standing on the shore and on the riverbank and catching hundreds of brook trout.”


After the fishermen, lumberjacks came. They cut down the big trees that shaded the streams. They floated timber down the rivers, eroding the banks. Now these rivers are much more susceptible to flooding and sedimentation. The coaster brook trout need a rocky bottom, not a mud bottom, to spawn.


Then the state began stocking other fish here, so anglers would have something to catch. Pacific salmon, European brown trout. They compete with the few native brook trout that still survive in Lake Superior streams.


Some people want to try to restore the native brook trout. But others like to catch the big salmon, and the feisty rainbows. Don Schreiner says the DNR has to balance those competing demands.


“I think everybody cares about coaster brook trout as long as it doesn’t cost them anything personally. If I have to give up my favorite species in favor of a coaster brook trout, I might not be willing to do that. That’s the sort of thing we see.”


Angling restrictions imposed in the last few years have helped the trout. Schreiner says it’s possible they’ll bounce back, if people leave them alone, but improving the habitat is also key. That could take 50 years.


Some groups are trying to push things along a little faster.


The Red Cliff Tribal Fish Hatchery near Bayfield Wisconsin specializes in rearing coaster brook trout. Every year a million eggs are hatched here.


“Inside this building is where we keep our adult brood stock fish.”


Greg Fischer is the hatchery manager. He says they raise some fish for a year and a half before releasing them. Workers mark these fish to keep track of them in the wild.


“We have fin clipping parties where for several days we fin-clip each one of the fish, and when we’re stocking anywhere from 50 to 80,000 of these larger fish a year, that’s a lot of marking”


Some coasters from the hatchery might find a home at Whittlesey Creek near Ashland, Wisconsin. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is turning Whittlesey Creek into a refuge for coaster brook trout.


Biologist Lee Newman says it’s a promising spot for spawning. Springs seep up through the gravel bottom. That provides the eggs with a constant flow of oxygen. Newman wants to plant eggs and very young fry directly over the springs. That’s what they did on the Grand Portage Chippewa reservation in Minnesota. And Newman says it worked there.


“We’ve captured pairs of adults that were radio tagged and captured on their spawning beds, and two years later catch the exact same pair on the exact same spawning beds, indicating that they are returning precisely to their home locations.”


Newman says when the fish are very young they can imprint on the chemistry of the stream, and find their way back years later.


Biologists still have a lot of questions about how to help the coaster brook trout. But right now, at least, its future looks a little brighter. For the Great Lakes Radio Consortium, I’m Stephanie Hemphill.

Chefs Serve Up Fish Conservation

  • Rick Bayless, a co-founder of Chefs Collaborative, is working to persuade other chefs to think about the environment when they make their decisions about food.

Some restauranteurs are looking at the effect they’re having on the world’s ecology, and as a result their chefs are changing their menus and their recipes so that there’s less pressure on some kinds of fish species. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Lester Graham reports:

Transcript

Some restaurateurs are looking at the effect they’re having on the world’s ecology. And as a result their chefs are changing their menus and their recipes so that there’s less pressure on some kinds of fish species. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Lester Graham reports:

It’s the middle of the week and there’s already more than an hour wait to get a table at this trendy Chicago restaurant. The Frontera Grill is the domain of executive chef and owner Rick Bayless. Bayless is known for several things: a television show on public TV, redefining Mexican cuisine, and co-founding a group that’s concerned about the impact chefs’ decisions have on the environment. The group Chefs Collaborative is especially concerned about what it calls “ecologically responsible seafood procurement.” It’s calling on chefs to learn about which fish species are over-fished, to ask questions of fish providers about the size and quantity of the catch, and to think about what they can do about taking pressure off of depleted fish supplies. The problem is that many of the world’s more popular fish species have been in such high demand; they’re being fished nearly out of existence.

Chef Bayless says restaurants and their chefs play a major role in fish consumption. By making a particular type of fish popular to eat, chefs also help decide what people eat at home or demand from other restaurants. So a chef can make a difference. Bayless says instead of using a popular fish that’s seen its numbers decline due to over-fishing, the chef can substitute another kind of fish, or if necessary take it off the menu.

“I would say that we have taken off – we used to do Chilean sea bass; we no longer do it. We used to do a lot of blue fin tuna; we don’t do hardly any of that anymore. We rarely serve snapper because that’s become a pretty heavily fished species. There’s a lot of things we don’t do that we used to because we realize that diversity is going to be the answer to not over-fishing.”

But the effort to get chefs to think about the ecological consequences of their decisions isn’t embraced by everyone. Many chefs take pride in serving only the very best regardless of the financial or environmental cost. So, some chefs are not willing to take a popular fish off the menu. Bayless says they’ll keep using an over-fished species even though they know the fish’s population is being depleted.

“There’s some great chefs in this country that have more or less made their reputations on dishes that involve Chilean sea bass. And they’re going to be the last ones to change because they think of these dishes as their signatures, so a lot of those guys will shy away from these kinds of discussions.”

And if the chefs demand a fish at any price, there will always be some commercial fishers who will provide it if they can.

Peter Jarvis operates Triar Seafood in Hollywood, Florida. He supplies fish to chefs across the nation. Jarvis says some of his chefs are concerned about over-fishing. They know that certain ocean fish have dropped in numbers and have dropped in size in the past. But sometimes their information is out-dated. Back in the 1980s the Reagan administration pushed the international boundary waters out to 200 miles off the coast.
Then federal agencies closed or restricted fishing for certain species. Some of those populations have rebounded. So, Jarvis says it’s important that chefs talk to their providers rather than make decisions on old information. But Jarvis says it’s a different story farther out in international waters, and along the coasts of other nations. There, he says, little is done to check over-harvesting.

“We don’t seem to have a very good handle on the over-fishing situation outside of our own borders. You know, you go two-hundred miles off into international waters and it’s all renegades out there with very large vessels that are just pillaging the waters.”

And some chefs resort to buying fish from those sources or from countries with weak conservation laws. Even more bothersome to Jarvis are huge trawlers taking tons of fish for fish sticks and fast food fish sandwiches. But Jarvis says the more sophisticated consumer, the kind who frequents upscale restaurants, seems to be willing to put up with some changes on the menu. Chefs tell him that many of their patrons are willing to be flexible.

At the Frontera Grill, the patrons we talked to seemed to agree. We asked Lyn Schroth how she would feel if her favorite restaurant dropped a dish from the menu because that fish was being over-harvested.

“I’d be very happy with them because I wouldn’t want to eat anything that – you know, I’m a big animal lover, okay? And, most the time I don’t know what’s endangered and what’s not. And, the restaurant takes it off the menu, I’m proud of them.”

While restaurant patrons might be willing to make changes for the sake of the environment, getting the message to chefs is harder. Chef Rick Bayless says the culinary schools aren’t talking about the source of foods or the pressure on stocks in the ocean or on the ground with their student chefs.

“I think that’s the biggest disservice this country is making to the next generation of chefs. They’re teaching young chefs mostly to say ‘I’m demanding the best quality,’ but they should be demanding the products that are going to ensure that we have a future. And, they’re not doing that. They’re not teaching them that kind of stuff, about how to be responsible.”

But, Bayless says that some of the young chefs are learning that responsibility on their own through professional organizations such as the Chefs Collaborative and talking with fellow-chefs who are concerned about the environment. And Bayless adds they’re also learning from consumers who put pressure on the restaurants to think about the ecological impact of what they put on the menu.

For the Great Lakes Radio Consortium, this is Lester Graham.

Related Links

CHEFS SERVE UP FISH CONSERVATION (Short Version)

  • Rick Bayless, a co-founder of Chefs Collaborative, is working to persuade other chefs to think about the environment when they make their decisions about food.

Some chefs are working on campaigns to raise awareness about ocean fish conservation. Their efforts could mean some changes on your favorite restaurant’s menu. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Lester Graham reports:

Transcript

Some chefs are working on campaigns to raise awareness about ocean fish conservation. Their efforts could mean some changes on your favorite restaurant’s menu. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Lester Graham reports:

Some celebrity chefs from across the nation are working together to stress the importance of conserving fish species. Several fish have been over-harvested and the chefs are calling on their colleagues and consumers to be more ecologically responsible. Rick Bayless is a chef in Chicago and has a television show on public TV. He says his restaurants and chefs have tried to keep informed about the fish they use.

“And then as we hear that certain things are stressed populations or if, for instance, tuna is not coming in as big as it used to be or marlin from Florida is getting smaller and smaller. And we can see that. And then we’ll all sort of get together and go ‘I think we should really not do this anymore because this doesn’t look very good.”

Bayless and other chefs involved in conservation programs are urging people to use fish in a way that doesn’t continue to cause pressure on the fish populations that are disappearing due to over-harvesting.

For the Great Lakes Radio Consortium, this is Lester Graham.

Related Links

Artificial Reefs: A Help or a Hindrance?

Artificial reefs are being built in the Great Lakes to attract fish.
Sport fishing groups like them because the reefs make it easier to catch
fish. However…the Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Lester Graham reports
some conservationists are concerned the artificial reefs could destroy
natural habitat:

Managing the Cormorants

Wildlife officials around the Great Lakes region are struggling with
the issue of double-crested cormorant populations. There are questions
about the impact of the birds on sport fish and commercial fisheries.
New York State has asked the U-S Fish and Wildlife Service to approve a
new controversial plan for managing cormorants in eastern Lake Ontario.

Fish Release Scaled Back

There’s a shortage of fish food in the Great Lakes, so Wisconsin and
three other states have agreed to reduce the number of Chinook salmon
released into Lake Michigan in the spring. The action comes because a
limited food supply in the lake could threaten other fish populations.
The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Patty Murray reports:

Annual Sturgeon Spawn

Northeast Wisconsin is home to one of North America’s largest sturgeon populations. Every Spring, those sturgeon swim north from Lake Winnebago to spawn. The fish are huge, prehistoric-looking creatures. Some of them are more than six feet long and weigh a hundred pounds. The Great Lakes Radio Consortium’s Nick Van Der Puy was there and has this report: